In any case, their frequent honking tells me that they know for certain that winter is on its way. And with it, the deep freeze for most of us Canadians, our gardens included. We can count ourselves lucky, I suppose, that we get 5 or more months off, every year.
But for now, we are not done.
Still lots to do in the garden, so let's get it in: this week, in the form of answers to the most frequently asked questions this time of year.
Should I cut down my roses?
No. Unless they are so tall and lanky (e.g. grandifloras) that there is risk of them breaking off at the snow line in high winds. Best to leave them until spring arrives in earnest when you can assess the winter damage, if any, and trim accordingly. Watch my Yahoo blog for timely info on this subject at the appropriate time next spring.
Should I winterize my roses?
Yes. The preferred method in most parts of the country is to mound your roses up with clean top soil or triple mix, about 60 cm up the main canes of each plant. A corrugated plastic 'rose collar' will help you do a thorough job of this.
The purpose of mounding your roses is to insulated the lower portion of the canes and of course the root zone from the damage that is caused by both the deep freeze and the freeze/thaw cycle that many parts of Canada (including Southern Ontario) are famous for.
How do I winterize my rhododendrons?
The answer to this one is a bit tricky as it varies from region to region.
In zones 5, 6 and 7 a double layer of burlap, stretched around each rhodie, secured on wooden stakes, will do the job. To be sure that you have them properly insulated, spray them with Wilf-Pruf® (www.wiltpruf.com). This is the best 'anti-desiccant' on the market. One application will provide an invisible shield from the drying effects of winter wind and air. Wilf-Pruf® also makes a great Christmas tree preservative and fire retardant.
For good measure, I protect my rhodies this time of year by pouring loose leaves -the ones that fell on your lawn - into the cavity created by the stretched burlap.
Can I still plant spring flowering bulbs?
Yes. But the best time for planting daffodils and narcissus has past. Tulips, on the other hand, will perform very well next spring even with a late autumn planting.
Can I plant trees, shrubs and evergreens still?
You will be surprised at the performance of your fall planted 'woody' plants. Most trees and all shrubs and evergreens will overwinter in your garden, planted, just fine. In fact I will venture to say that most will outperform their spring planted equivalents.
A reminder that this is the most important time of year to fertilize your lawn (with a fall formulae - I prefer Golfgreen (www.cil.nu-gro.com).
Seeing as you likely have cut your lawn for the last time this year make sure that you have changed the oil, sharpened and oiled the blade, cleaned the air filter and stored it away nice and dry. Left over gasoline should be stored well away from the house and a gas preservative added to it to keep it fresh for use come spring. Or, just pour it into your car and BUY fresh next spring.
All hand tools - the ones that make contact with earth for sure - like digging tools etc. should be coated with oil before you ignore them for the winter.
And finally, it is o.k. to let your grass seed freeze- the main thing is that you keep it dry.
And you thought that there was precious little to do in the Canadian garden?
Wait 'til next week when I talk about your Halloween pumpkin and composting... The highlight of my gardening year!!
Keep your knees dirty,
Mark
Question of the Week
Q/ How do I store dahlia tubers for next year?
A/ Wait until the foliage has turned brown in the fall. Cut the foliage down, leaving a few inches of stem above ground. Dig around the plant carefully to avoid damaging the tubers. Lift the clump and gently shake out excess soil. Wash the tubers gently. Lay the tubers on sheets of newspaper and allow them to air dry in a sunny location for 1 week. Store tubers in a cardboard box lined with newspaper. Store in a cool, dark, dry location.


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