Frequently Asked Deck Buildings Questions (continued)

I checked out their web site and had a look at their blocks. I am sure they would work ok. The deck will float, that is move with the ground if the frost moves the ground, and for a small 12x10 deck that should not structurally be a problem.

I am thinking you don't need to spend the extra money on them though. With a free standing deck made of pressure treated lumber, you could rest the frame on any concrete block. The fact that they hold your joist does not add much. They are only $5 a piece so the cost is not much.

No Flashing Originally Placed on Ledger Board

We have a home that is 15 years old with siding. When the deck was originally installed by the builder they nailed the ledger board to the siding (no bolts used) and did not place flashing over the siding or ledger board. I found this out when I was removing the old deck to remodel.

There is one place where water has been hitting over the years where one of the 2X10 joists has rotted through. It was about 3 feet long. The remaining 2X10 joist appears to only be rotted 1/4 of the way through.

Will the rot on the remaining joist continue or will it stop. Looking at this remaining joist from underneath the house reveals no rot. i.e. if I just replace the 3 foot section will this be enough? Any thoughts on other potential problems.

While the partly rotten board may well last just fine once it is properly flashed and protected, it would be wise to replace it, if nothing more than to give you piece of mind. Is the board you are referring to a joist (running into the house) or the header running along the perimeter of the house.

The header board would be easy enough to replace. If it is a joist, then you can nail one along side the bad one.

In any case, yes, make sure you install the flashing. it goes up under the siding and then over top of the ledger board. That way no water can get trapped between the ledger and the house.

Attaching ledger boards to masonry

I designed a 14x50 ft ground level deck to run along the back of my house. The county said if I install a post against my house I have to dig to the original footer (about 7 ft) due to the amount of overdig by my builder. My rim joist on the house is 3 different levels and I want a 1 level deck.My concrete foundation extends about 24 inches above grade. Any ideas about attaching the ledger board to the concrete. I am skeptical about drilling so many holes in the foundation and installing expanding anchors.

I suggest to anyone with a question like yours to visit Powers fastener web site. You can find the site by typing in Powers Fasteners they have the formulas for finding the shear and load range needed for most purposes and their Tapper style anchor works very well without drilling all the way through the foundation this the structural damage is held to a minimum.

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Why not build the deck free standing from the house? Set the posts for the beam running closest to the house three inches out from the foundation. Allow the deck plating to extend the three inches over if the plating runs perpendicular to the house, if it runs parallel lag bolt a 2x6 to the beam to give yourself something to screw the last piece of deck plating to. Then you don't have to drill into the foundation or dig seven foot post holes.