Choose a sunscreen thats right for you

Wear sunscreen. Apply a lot of it, and apply it often. Sounds simple enough? But then you're standing in the drug store looking at shelf upon shelf of bottles, wondering why it suddenly seems so complicated. Which product is right for you, and how can you tell?

Read the label

A lot of the information you need is right on the bottle, if you know what to look for and understand what it means:

Sunscreen versus sunblock: Sunscreen contains chemicals that absorb or reflect the sun's rays to prevent them from reaching the deeper layers of the skin. In contrast, sunblock has ingredients (usually titanium oxide and zinc oxide) that physically block light, causing it to reflect or scatter. Sunblocks are thought to keep the skin cooler because they reflect rather than absorb rays, and may therefore be better for conditions like rosacea.

Broad Spectrum: Make sure the product protects against both UVA and UVB. UVA rays coverage may not be included, but these rays penetrate deeper into the skin and are mainly responsible for damage and signs of aging. The Environment Protection Agency's The Burning Facts (pdf) has a list of federally-approved ingredients and their effectiveness at blocking UVA or UVB rays.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor): SPF indicates how many times longer protected skin can stay in the sun before redness occurs versus unprotected skin. For example, if unprotected skin burns in 20 minutes, then an SPF 15 extends this time to 300 minutes (20 x 15). Experts recommend at least SPF 15, or higher if your skin burns easily or you plan to be outdoors for long periods of time.

But don't be fooled by the numbers: they aren't proportionate to strength. A sunscreen with SPF 15 blocks 93 per cent of UVB rays, while SPF 30 blocks 97 per cent. There is currently no standard measure for protection against UVA rays.

Waterproof or water resistant: Sunscreen will wash off in the water or when you sweat. Choose a product that suits your activities.

Stamps of approval: The Canadian Dermatology Association (CDA) logo means that the product meets its criteria. For example, it must have at least SPF 15, contain broad-spectrum UVA coverage, do not promote tanning, are non-comedogenic, non-irritating and hypo-allergenic, and have a minimum of fragrance or is non-perfumed. (See their criteria for more information).

Many products also feature the Canadian Cancer Society logo; however, the organization endorses the use of sunscreen but does not recommend or support any particular product.

Size matters: An eight ounce bottle may not go as far as you think. Experts estimate that adults should use one ounce (about 30mL) of sunscreen to cover their entire body. Of course, you'll probably use less if you're gardening than if you are swimming simply because less skin is exposed.

Sunscreen should also be reapplied during the day, especially after being in the water. You may want to pack a larger bottle for a cottage trip or resort vacation. Most sunscreens are good for two years before they expire.

If you're trying a new product, you might want to buy a smaller size to test it out before you invest in a larger amount.

Which products are best for sensitive skin?

Many people avoid sunscreen because it can cause breakouts or aggravate conditions such as rosacea and eczema. Different products have different combinations of active and non-active ingredients, many of which could cause allergic reactions when combined with the sun.

Should that be a reason to give up on sunscreens? No, the key is finding the right one. If your skin is less than cooperative, here's what to look for:

- Opt for oil free, chemical-free and perfume or fragrance-free products. These ingredients are common irritants.

- Avoid products containing para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and benzophenones (dioxybenzone, oxybenzone, or sulisobenzone). According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), these chemicals are more likely to cause a reaction.

- Try products with zinc oxide and titanium oxide instead -- the EPA says these ingredients don't typically cause a reaction. Today's smaller particle sizes are less likely to clog pores than previous generations of chalky sunblocks.

- When in doubt, the National Rosacea Society recommends trying a pediatric formula or a moisturizer with dimethicone. The chemicals and ingredients generally not recommended for children could be irritants for adults as well.

Finding the right one may mean a little trial and error. The CDA recommends doing a "spot test" on your skin -- try a little of the product on your skin and wait 48 hours to see how your skin reacts. Ask at the cosmetics counter if any samples or testers are available.

Not so safe?

Just about everyone you ask will tell you to wear sunscreen, and these products are generally regarded as safe by Health Canada, the European Commission and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). However, critics claim that sunscreens are harmful to your health:

Potentially toxic ingredients: There is some debate as to the safety of Benzophenone-3 (known as BP-3 or oxybenzone), a common ingredient in sunscreens and cosmetic products with SPF. Last year, a recent study published in Environmental Health Perspectives revealed approximately 97 per cent of the population sampled had the chemical in their urine. This could be cause for concern because, as the study notes, there is a lack of toxicological and epidemiological data on this chemical. The study calls for more research and monitoring. Previous research cited in the study points to traces of the chemical in water supplies. In addition, environmentalists claim that oxybenzone has been associated with birth defects, cell damage and hormone disruptions.

Other chemicals contained in sunscreen could also be carcinogenic, and can build up in the body and the environment. An investigation of 952 sunscreen products by the Environmental Working Group showed that 84 per cent didn't offer adequate protection or contained harmful substances like oxybenzone or perfumes (click here to see the latest study results).

The official word? The cosmetics industry and government organizations alike are critical of claims questioning safety, concerned that people may start to shy away from these products. More research is needed, and the FDA still hasn't finalized standards for sunscreens.

If you want to know more, the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Cosmetics Database has a list of the sunscreens evaluated in their study -- including the best and worst.

Vitamin D deficiency: Critics claim that the use of sunscreen is contributing to Vitamin D deficiency, especially in older adults. This can lead to an increased risk for stroke, heart attack and depression in adults. Vitamin D is also instrumental in preventing cancer. The fact is most people simply aren't getting enough. (For more information, see Get your Vitamin D).

You won't see any arguments from experts on that point; however, it is the amount of sunlight that is the cause for dispute. Beware of claims that we shouldn't wear sunscreen at all. While it may be true that our ancestors survived for thousands of years without sunscreen, environmental conditions are very different today. Prolonged exposure is hazardous -- and unnecessary. Experts recommend that short periods of unprotected sunshine are enough to fulfill your daily requirements. Ten to fifteen minutes will do the trick, after which time sunscreen should be used. Diet and vitamin supplements can also help fill in the gaps.

Other ways to protect yourself

- Find out if any medications you take make you more sensitive to sunlight and take appropriate precautions.

- Consider the weather and location. UV rays can penetrate clouds, and water, snow and sand will reflect light. Check your local weather report for the UV Index. If it's over three, then you need to take protective measures.

- Wear sunglasses. If you don't wear prescription sunglasses or clip-ons, make sure any glasses you purchase will guard against UVA and UVB. Even if the sticker on the rack at the mall says "yes", have them tested at your optometrist's office to be sure.

- Wear a wide brimmed hat to shade your neck, ears and face.

- Play up your summer fashion sense. Tightly woven fabrics block out the light, but light weight and light coloured clothing may offer less protection than sunscreen. Holding the fabric up to the light to see how much light shines through will give you an idea of how much protection you're getting.

- Your best defense is to stay in the shade or stay inside from 11:00am to 4:00pm. If you're not wearing enough sunscreen or the right protective clothing, you're actually putting yourself at increased risk due to a false sense of security. An umbrella or portable shelter makes a great source of shade at the park or beach.

A final word of advice: When it comes to making a purchase, don't be shy about asking questions first. Talk to a pharmacist or cosmetician about which product will be best for you.

Resources

Canadian Cancer Society: Using Sunscreen
Canadian Dermatology Association: Sun Safety Resources
Environmental Protection Agency: The Burning Facts (pdf)
Environmental Working Group: CDC: Americans Carry 'Body Burden' of Toxic Sunscreen Chemical
Environmental Health Perspectives
Health Canada: Sunscreens
National Rosacea Society

Photo ©iStockphoto.com/Zsolt Biczó