Best New Wine Lists 2006

Press

St. Helena, CA
"We wanted to showcase the Napa vintners who might be our customers and tell their stories. There are lots of stories," says general manager and wine buyer Stefan Matulich.

How does a new restaurant make its mark in the middle of hypercompetitive Napa Valley? Matulich created a 550-bottle list of Napa—and only Napa—vintners. Paragraph-long histories and winemaker bios follow dozens of the listings. Plenty of the wineries are small or new enough to be unfamiliar to most outsiders (Ahnfeldt, Diamond Terrace, Waugh Cellars). Press also maintains a modest markup (even less for the more expensive wines), which means lots of wines in the $40 to $60 range—no minor accomplishment in pricey Napa Valley.

Best Pairing With F&W Best New Chef 1997 Keith Luce's Moroccan-style rack of lamb, Matulich likes to pour the 2003 John Anthony Syrah ($54), a wine he says "has lush, blueberry fruit and a hint of bitter cola nut that plays off the lamb's mild spices."

Best Buy 2003 Provenence Cabernet Sauvignon ($43). "Rutherford winemaker Tom Rinaldi creates this beautifully composed Cabernet in a soft old-world style," says Matulich. "The flavors blend together harmoniously."

Details 587 St. Helena Hwy.; 707-967-0550.

Wilshire

Santa Monica, CA
"We lean toward wines that are lower in alcohol. No thick and syrupy for us," says wine director Matt Straus.

"For the wine list I wanted diversity in flavor, in geography and, most important, in vintages," says Straus. "I'm all about bottle age." He's also about value: Wilshire's globe-spanning, 350-bottle list has a gratifyingly large number of choices in the $30 to $50 range, including the luscious 2001 Marc Kreydenweiss Andlau Riesling ($36) and the 2001 RBJ Theologicum ($49), a dense red Australian blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre.

Best Pairing To match with chef Chris Blobaum's poached egg, braised artichokes, lentils and bacon, Straus suggests a 1997 Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Les Ménétrières ($70). "It has a fantastic acidity but also layers of flavor, because of its age," he says. "It's perfect for picking up the subtle tastes of this dish."

Best Buy 1994 Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roche aux Moines ($48). "This wine from a prestigious Loire house opens people's eyes to how intriguing an older Chenin Blanc can be."

Details 2454 Wilshire Blvd.; 310-586-1707.

Patanegra

Portland, OR
Co-owner and wine director Ricardo Segura has won his bet that Pinot Noir–drinking Oregonians could learn to love Tempranillo.

To go with the Spanish cuisine from chef Bernard Malherb, Segura gambled on a Pinot Noir–less, all-Spanish list, with a smattering of New World wines made from Spanish varietals. Among the over 350 bottlings are about 100 Riojas, from bargains like the fruity 2002 El Coto Crianza ($26) to offerings on the "Reserva Especial" list like the 1982 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 890 ($120).

Best Pairing Segura chooses a Rioja, a 1996 Viña Bosconia Reserva from López de Heredia ($40), to go with the chorizo-stuffed squid in saffron sauce. "This wine is earthy and medium-bodied, and although it's red, it doesn't overwhelm the dish," he says.