Foodie friends who brought Memphis barbecue to Canada pen cookbook

By Judy Creighton, THE CANADIAN PRESS
Foodie friends who brought Memphis barbecue to Canada pen cookbook

Aficionados of barbecued pork spareribs, stop boiling the meat before you slap it on the grill!

"In fact, never boil meat because it leaches all the flavour out," says George Siu, co-author with Winnipeg native Park Heffelfinger of "Memphis Blues Barbeque House: Bringin' Southern BBQ Home" (Whitecap).

"And when you boil meat it turns this kind of grey brownish colour with a chewy rubbery texture," says the 47-year-old Vancouverite, who with Heffelfinger owns a chain of the Memphis Blues Barbeque House restaurants in B.C.

The pair met when Siu took a wine course from Heffelfinger, 54, founder of the Vancouver Wine Academy. Because of their passion for food and wine, they became close friends and business partners.

They travelled to Memphis and experienced their first taste of a pulled pork sandwich, which set them on the road to learning more about barbecue. In 2001, they opened their first restaurant in Vancouver and were amazed at the positive reaction to bringing southern barbecue to Canada.

"We really hit the ground running," says Siu, who was born in Taiwan. "At the time people wanted good honest food after 10 to 15 years of being told what to eat, when to eat and how healthy it had to be."

The book teaches its readers how to prepare delicious pulled pork, barbecued brisket, slow smoked ribs, smoked Cornish game hen (a favourite of the late Julia Child) and pecan pie.

"It's about gathering friends and family on the weekend to enjoy slowly cooked meat that has spent a good three to four hours on the grill over indirect heat," Siu says. "Place meat on one side of the grill with no flame and spread wood chips on the fired side. Close the lid and maintain a temperature of about 300 F (150 C) because that is where the whole smoky texture starts and tenderizes the meat."

The book also includes recipes for other southern delights like deep-fried oysters, pan-fried catfish, sweet pickle potato salad and drinks such as mint julep and bourbon sour.

The authors are devotees of rubs for the best barbecue results. Here is their recipe for a classic master dry rub which can be used on meat and also on beans, breading, snacks - even in salad dressing.

All-Purpose Dry Rub

250 ml (1 cup) dried parsley

250 ml (1 cup) sugar

250 ml (1 cup) seasoned salt

45 ml (3 tbsp) ground black pepper

45 ml (3 tbsp) garlic powder

45 ml (3 tbsp) onion powder

45 ml (3 tbsp) dried oregano

45 ml (3 tbsp) sweet paprika

15 ml (1 tbsp) mild mustard powder

15 ml (1 tbsp) celery salt

Pinch cayenne pepper

In a mixing bowl, combine all ingredients with a whisk. Make sure there are no clumps. Store any leftover rub in an airtight container in the cupboard for up to 6 months.

Use on pork, chicken, turkey or fish.

Makes 1 l (4 cups).

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