FASHION WEEK’S FINEST: FALL/WINTER 2009

FASHION WEEK’S FINEST: FALL/WINTER 2009

s fashion team dishes on the 30 looks they loved from the fall collections

Photography, Anthea Simms

Click for picks

The buzz at this show was exhilarating. With a cool front row - even SJP was there - and the best girls on the runway, Alexander Wang turned out an edgy collection packed with fur trimmed leather jackets, bicycle shorts, hot big handbags and stomping boots. I loved how he skipped down the runway with a huge smile at the finale. He's a huge talent to watch and his energy vibrates in everything he does.
–Lisa Tant, Editor-in Chief

By the time Jessica Stam walked past me, I was laughing. Marc's show was no joke but it was refreshingly fun - laugh-out-loud crazy. Not only did he start minutes before show time - and locked big time editors outside - but he set the tone for a joyous look at the 80s. Inspired by his club days, the show was a nutty riot of colour and outrageous silhouettes paired with Flock of Seagulls hair and electric makeup.
–Lisa Tant, Editor-in Chief

I've always been a big fan of Donna Karan's sexy womanly collections. She designs for real women - as proven by this gorgeous draped jersey dress with her signature 'cold' shoulder. For fall, she paid tribute to her first collections that reflected a powerful feminine sensuality - perfect for today's business executive.
–Lisa Tant, Editor-in Chief

While the reviews were mixed and his models bowl-cut wigs were universally panned, I loved this dandy collection that borrowed liberally from the 1960s. The runway was littered with great pieces - a shearling jacket, cutaway jacket, easy dresses - that are truly wearable and come at 3.1 Phillip Lim's more affordable prices. His collections make sense and fans are voting by snapping up his collections.
–Lisa Tant, Editor-in Chief

Diane von Furstenberg knows exactly what to design in difficult times - cheerful easy pieces that won't break the bank. What I loved about DVF's jet-setter themed show was how fresh it looked - easy unstructured jackets, patterned leggings, colourful tunics - that work with wardrobe basics in a bright approach.
–Lisa Tant, Editor-in Chief

The texture overload and womanly polish made this show stand out. Elbaz continued with his luxe lady look but made it stronger and more aggressive with metal detailing on the clothes and chunky almost renegade looking jewelry.

Christophe Decarnain’s rocker glam look is still ruling the runways – last season’s exaggerated shoulders inspired many a designer this season. He used 80’s influence’s, combining DYNASTY glamour with punk for a look that every It-girl will covet.

The last show of the season, this collection made me giddy and reminded me why I love fashion. The Parisian frills and flounces oozed sophistication but kept the mood light and fun. My favourite part? The bunny ears of course.

One never knows what Nicolas Ghesqiuère will come up with each season – that’s why he’s a fashion darling. And yet, he managed to completely surprise us by turning his back on the futuristic designs he’s become known for and revert to the idea of classical French dressing with draping and soft femininity. Modern and classic at the same time – what every woman looks for in luxury dressing.

Always a showman, McQueen did not disappoint this season. Girls in sex doll lips and couture worthy clothes evoking 1940’s Dior, walked around a heaping pile of trash used in previous McQueen shows – his way of addressing the state of commercial fashion and consumerism.

Christopher Bailey never fails to re-energize his quietly styled Burberry Girl. From the opening suede trench, we knew that the season was going to be luxer than luxe. He avoided the eighties entirely and sent his girls out in floaty chiffon mid-calf dresses topped with oversize cardigans and jackets and played up his accessories - heavy heather grey tights, barbed wire metal bracelets and thick lace-up boots.
–Tammy Palmer, Senior Market Editor

The Canadian design duo, Dean and Dan Caten, certainly know how to keep the fashion flock awake on a Friday morning. A grand staircase provided the backdrop and the boys had their glossy girls float down the stairs in silky ball gowns with Starbucks in tow- as if they’d just gotten back after a night of partying. Familiar pieces? You bet. But they managed to mix it up with adorable studded denim corsets, fringed skirts, a touch of leopard, signature plaid and the best soundtrack of the week.
–Tammy Palmer, Senior Market Editor

She practically reinvents the wheel each time. For this season, Miuccia Prada said that she went hunting and fishing with a bit of forties thrown in- hence the thigh-high waders, nubbly thick-as-can-be wool suitings and lush brocade velvet a-line dresses that surprisingly most can wear. If the clothing doesn’t sell, the accessories definitely will. Fur and sequin clutches and the most practical flat wellies will delight the well-travelled girl.
–Tammy Palmer, Senior Market Editor

Consuelo Constiglioni never strays from her Marni roots. Her magpie muse was dressed in a more polished, conservative color palette with a stunning forest green skinny pant leading the way. Spattering of fur trimmed jackets and accessories, cozy patterned knits and tights, matchy-matchy pantsuits and a hit of colorful sequin paillette tops closed out an incredibly distinct and wearable collection.
–Tammy Palmer, Senior Market Editor

For his design debut, Peter Dundas of Ungaro and Cavalli fame gave the Florence-based fashion house’s iconic swirly disco bright prints a club-ready edge. Luxe fox fur-trimmed parkas, thigh-high boots and sexy body-hugging dresses all married well in a stunningly sexy collection.
–Tammy Palmer, Senior Market Editor

This look might seem simple enough: jacket, skirt, bootie… But it’s the subtle details – rolled camel scarf, outsize shoulders, pleated leather – that make it special. Dries Van Noten perfected daytime elegance this season.
–Elisa Kosonen, Assistant Editor, Fashion News

Consistently one of my favourite shows each season. But this mannish double-breasted jacket with delicate lace dress is so sexy and so quintessentially Stella, that I’ve fallen in love all over again.
–Elisa Kosonen, Assistant Editor, Fashion News

Can’t you just envision riding the Siberian Express in this relaxed but luxe look? This is how I will do winter this year – with a hint of shearling and knock-out silver heels.
–Elisa Kosonen, Assistant Editor, Fashion News

The skirt suit was ubiquitous this season, but I can’t help but hang on to YSL’s louche trousers. A slick leather blazer and slouchy pants, with a slick of candy red lipstick, is power dressing at its finest.
–Elisa Kosonen, Assistant Editor, Fashion News

Wild print, bejeweled shoulders, chic gathered draping at the hip – this dress from up and comer Peter Pilotto is a knockout. Plus, the cool over-the-knee boots are by Canuck shoe designerJerome C. Rousseau, so points are scored for homegrown design too.
–Elisa Kosonen, Assistant Editor, Fashion News

I favour the Fall collections mainly for the recurring trend of ultra-rich textures - this season, the best of which was seen at Givenchy. Feral but incredibly sensual yards of goat hair strapped tightly across the bust, and cascaded into a full skirt. It's untamed and womanly, commanding and alluring all at once.
–Fiona Green, Assistant Fashion Editor

Quintessential Parisian chic was en vogue at Balenciaga this season, a refreshing departure from spring’sTron-marathon futurism. Folds of rich silk stacked on the hips, sari-style wrapping, and a cheeky peek-a-boo lace bandeau bra made for a decadent exit.
–Fiona Green, Assistant Fashion Editor

Preen’s effortless sexiness gives it a huge draw each season. Its signature cutouts and bandage dressing were fresh in unexpected technicolour. Standout look: a super lush chubby pale blue and white fur coat against bare legs, with a barely-there body-con mini-dress totally reminiscent of trippy retro futurism.
–Fiona Green, Assistant Fashion Editor

The strength of this collection was in its streamlined ferocity; stripped-down power dressing in strict leathers and revamped suit silhouettes. The leather one-piece ‘bunny’ suit was a knockout amongst more masculine tailoring, with its high nipped waist and fuller bust.
–Fiona Green, Assistant Fashion Editor

This was a collection that I kept looking over again and again. The looks had multiple layers that drew me in, but also created a complex overall atmosphere. Trompe l'oeil detailing was the clever touch that kept the looks from being too heavy-handed. These were stunning runway looks that can dismantle into practical fatigue jackets and menswear brogues.
–Fiona Green, Assistant Fashion Editor

McQueen never ceases to amaze and his creations can always be counted on to be controversial yet visually spectacular. This season did not disappoint, this look is vibrant however the dramatic makeup and oversized black umbrella hat definitely evoke a dark side.
–Erin O’Brien, Fashion Coordinator

“Balmania” is far from over as we head into the Fall ‘09 season. The intense blue and strong shoulders in this look prove that the homage to the 80’s is alive and well.
–Erin O’Brien, Fashion Coordinator

Always counted on to be light and feminine this sophisticated look from Chloé is vintage glamour at its best.
–Erin O’Brien, Fashion Coordinator

My favorite thing about Derek Lam’s designs is how wearable they are. This chic draped skirt and sequined top is a definite fall staple that can easily go from day to night.
–Erin O’Brien, Fashion Coordinator

The Mulleavy sisters dabbled in futurism with bondage-esque thigh high boots and short structured dresses. The entire collection was a complete hit.
–Erin O’Brien, Fashion Coordinator