Pump up the volume: Biddell goes big with sleek, free-form silhouettes

TORONTO - As the first billowing black liquid satin gown rippled down the catwalk in the darkened runway room to open Evan Biddell's presentation, the emphasis was clear: Biddell was going big.

The self-taught designer and Season 1 "Project Runway Canada" champ delivered arguably his most sophisticated collection to date, with dresses, jumpers, coats and separates that amped up the volume with sleek silhouettes boasting exaggerated detailing.

From an oversized pleated tuxedo vest, to balloon pants and pleated dhotis, to towering asymmetrical collars, ruffle-folded capelets and draped tented gowns, over-the-top accents injected drama and glamour into the slick designs.

Biddell added menswear into the mix which trended more toward casual with sheer tanks and track suits, but borrowed elements from the ladies' looks, notably the dhoti-style and gathered crop pants.

The designer's signature cowl hoods seen in past collections were again out in force on cutout monikinis and balloon jumpers.

But it was in his eveningwear looks where Biddell made his mark, with plunging, open V-necklines, blousy draping and rippling trains in more loose-fitting creations spanning the colour spectrum from dark to fiery hues, and in snug creations like a ruched strapless navy number.

A slick croc-style print in gun-metal grey was showcased in skin-tight creations, from a high-waisted short to a bodysuit donned by a male model.