Exotic looks at New York Fashion Week can create a virtual vacation

NEW YORK - Designers at New York Fashion Week, faced with a grim national mood, looked for a solution far, far away.

Vacation destinations - both exotic and less so - were the inspiration for countless collections for spring 2010, which was in its seventh day of previews on Wednesday. If most people are left with "staycations" these days, at least they can take a visual journey.

Oscar de la Renta's look was well-travelled, seeming to draw inspiration from style traditions in Africa, South America and Southeast Asia. Diane von Furstenberg imagined sunset on the Nile, while Carolina Herrera had a Latin American vibe with exotic rope and raffia details. Marchesa looked to Japan.

"People want to feel cultured, travelled and exotic, even if they're not going anywhere. You can get there through fashion," said stylist Robert Verdi.

Yet the destinations were more down-to-earth than usual suspects like the French Riviera. Derek Lam took inspiration from American boardwalk towns; Lela Rose had her Venice Beach surfers. The overall feel was a more relaxed version of luxury - even if the clothes are just as expensive.

MICHAEL KORS

Michael Kors had a clear vision for his new collection: use strategically placed pieces of a colourless acrylic material to add lightness and sex appeal to a season of "urbane renewal."

The Perspex pieces, which went down the sides of a black swimsuit and across the waist of a sky-blue shift for a full view of the models' skin, gave Kors' overall look for spring a bit of a '60s vibe.

A white leather shift dress with a zigzag of zippers down the front (worn by Kors muse Carmen Kass) kicked off the show. A bleach-splatter fitted dress, silver crinkle lame sheath and black "cage" dress with a slashed bodice and checkerboard of black patent leather as its back all looped back to Kors' interest in graphics and architecture.

But the collection also had a softer side, best illustrated by the painterly watercolour prints in lilac and seafoam used for silhouettes including walking shorts and an origami-folded skirt.

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Oscar de la Renta's collection had some of the elaborate beadwork and embroidery that are the designer's hallmark, but he also was aware of the times and the world around him, avoiding anything that would be considered too haughty.

A teal-blue coat with citrine-green embroidery topped a white lace dress, a strapless gown was covered in sunburned bronze-and-red sequins, while another gown had a bejewelled turquoise and coral waistband.

Safari jackets were paired with skinny silk-faille pants, and a pair of linen gaucho pants was worn with a white cotton blouse and a bronze tweed jacket. The models in the more traditional de la Renta eveningwear - taffeta and organza gowns in bright fuchsia and red as well as a black lace-and-organza ruffled and embellished one - wore lace mantillas on their heads.

The most elaborate outfit was the finale piece: a strapless gown made of layers upon layers of grey and blue tulle with a bodice covered in crystals.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

Finding that right middle point between body-hugging and billowy is a feat that designer Narciso Rodriguez should be proud of. His spring collection was a study of restraint on one side, and freedom on the other.